Bratislava and Pieštany

Date: May 28th to June 5th, 2023

In the summer of 2023, I took a "mini sabbatical" and spent almost 5 weeks in Europe. This is the first part of this extensive trip report. I started with a week in Slovakia, where I got to visit my family and also attended a Slovak space technology conference. Next I headed to Bulgaria, where I spent few days at my mom's place, before embarking with her on a 9 night MSC Splendida Mediterranean cruise out of Istanbul. You will find those pictures under MSC Med Cruise. Next, Sandra met me in Istanbul, and after sightseeing there, we headed back to Bulgaria to show her the Lozenets apartment. We then flew to Rome. Those pictures are found under Istanbul, Bulgaria, Rome.

Bratislava

I flew into Vienna (as usual), where Petra came to pick me up. This was bit of an adventure as I did not recognize her at first. She lost a ton of weight since the last time we saw each other (and it's not like she ever had much to lose to begin with). There was somebody who looked possibly like her, but was way too skinny so I did not think it could be Petra. That person also did not react when I tried calling Petra on Messenger (as it turned out, she was dealing with some work emails and did not notice the incoming call). But it was her! We next headed to her apartment in Bratislava's Petržalka district although the first stop was actually a near-by beergarden for beer and food.

The next few days were spent visiting Bratislava, and just hanging out with Petra, Fero, and my niece and nephew Sofinka and Ferko. They are all very athletic and much of this involved shuffling between various dance, karate, and gymnastics events. Besides spending time with family, I also did quite a bit of working, primarily focusing on wrapping up my second textbook by utilizing 3 out of 4 different Bratislava Regus locations. I also attended a conference on the emerging Slovak space sector called Emerging Space. The conference was held at the Slovak Technological University (STU) Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Informatics (FEI). This trip also gave me the chance to catch up with some old friends, including my elementary school classmate Michal B., and also Marek H. from Washington, D.C.

Family portraits (the girl in a red skirt is one of Sofia's friends).
I also met up with some old friends: Mišo from elementary school and Marek from D.C. Slovak meetup.
Slovak emerging space conference
I attended Emerging Space conference at the Slovak Technological University (STU)

Of course I did my usual sightseeing running. Running in Bratislava, especially in the summer, is quite nice. The sunrise is before 5 am, and by 6 am, it is so bright out that it feels like noon back in Los Angeles. Except, the city is deserted. I passed by the famous landmarks, such as the Čumil statue in the Old Town, with absolutely nobody around. The brightness of the overhead sun gave the run an eerie vibe, since it felt as if I have entered some post-apocalyptical city that saw its entire population vanish. Below are some pictures from this 10 mile loop. Unfortunately, I was not able to get into the Bratislava Castle as the gate doesn't open until after 8am.

bratislava run map
Route of my 10.4 mile Bratislava run.
eurovea tower skyscraper
Pictures from my run, including in front of Slovakia's first skyscraper Eurovea Tower, and the totally deserted old town (at 6am).
Bratislava from the castle
View from the castle garden, later from the bike path along the Danube, and also one of the many poppies growing everywhere.
My father came to Bratislava on Thursday, June 1st, which happened to be the International Children's Day (MDD in Slovak). I wanted to take him on a sightseeing boat on the Danube, but, the departure we wanted to take happened to be fully booked out by the city in order to offer free rides to kids and their parents to celebrate the holiday. Well, I didn't think we qualified, but my dad inquired, and me technically also being a child, got us onboard. This was my first time doing this sightseeing boat trip but it is definitely worth it, even if you have to pay for it. Later I also took my dad to the food court in the new Nivy shopping center. A few years back, this site housed the old central bus station. Now the bus station is located underground, and above it is a very nice modern shopping mall that even features a jogging path (apparently sponsored by Strava) on its roof. The food court offers a wide variety of cuisines, so my father got to try his first ever ramen noodle soup. We have good ramen spots in LA, but I very much liked the one found in this food court. By the way, one interesting tidbit may be that the word "strava" in Slovak means "food rations".
eurovea tower from danube sightseeing boat
Free sightseeing boat ride on the Danube for International Children's Day.
strava sponsored walking path on the roof of nivy center
Strava sponsored (?) walking track on top of the new Nivy shopping center, where you can also find amazing ramen at the food court.

Pieštany

The next morning, my dad and I traveled to a town called Pieštany. This town, located about 50 minutes north of Bratislava on the D1 highway, has been a popular spa destination since the Middle Ages. The town itself is located on the western bank of the Váh river. In the middle of the river is a small island that is home to several spa houses that offer treatments based on the naturally occurring thermal mud with supposedly healing properties. The hotels located on the island range from the luxurious Thermia Palace resort to the more medically-oriented establishments such as Pro Patria where we stayed due to the lower cost. One curiosity of Slovak health care system is that it is completely commonplace for a doctor to prescribe a weeklong spa stay for a variety of medical conditions, including stress or post-surgery rehabilitation. Staying at Pro Patria was quite interesting as it feels more like a hospital. This is very different from the Thermia Palace where I stayed with Sandra in 2024, which is more like a regular (although very fancy) hotel. The workers wore hospital garbs, and most other guests were clearly suffering from ailments, including various leg and arm deformities. In fact, the symbol of Piestany is a 'cripple' breaking his crutches, as it is believed that the mud can help people recover their mobility. I am not so sure about this claim, however soaking in hot water can be indeed quite relaxing. Pieštany is otherwise also known for its cultural offerings. The weekend when we came coincided with their annual "opening day" used to mark the start of another seasons. It was filled with parades, vendors, and outdoor concert of a famous band called Vidiek. Other cultural events that take place over the year include classical music and film festivals, as well as various running and triathlon races. There is also a lake with a yacht club that organizes regattas.

thermia palace
Thermia Palace and me trying the stinky 'eggy' mineral water.
Mud at the Piestany Napoleon Spa
Of course, we also visited the Napoleon spa.
Having some (non-alcoholic) beers in old town, and later checking out Vidiek concert.
Opening day parade on the spa island. I also went for a run along a poplar-lined circuit path.
thermia palace cafeslovak cakes
We also ate bunch of cakes, including inside the Thermia palace and at the near by patisserie Elizabeth.

But the main reason for coming here was not to partake in the mud ritual or to watch a concert. Instead, I recently purchased a small 44m2 "studio-plus" apartment in a new construction Pinia located along the eastern bank of the river. The river here turns into a large lake called Sĺňava that is popular for sailing, kayaking, and sunbathing. There is even a wake boarding resort next door. As of this writing (early 2024), the building is fully constructed and permitted for occupancy and I am in the process of setting up the interior. Apartments in Slovak new constructions (called novostavby) are typically delivered as a "naked apartment" (holobyt) and it is up to the owner to complete it. The benefit is that you can customize it as you like, but the downside is both the extra time required to make it usable and also the extra cost. This is a fairly major undertaking as you receive just the walls, and still need to put in the ceiling light fixtures, install and paint the drywall, run electrical and plumbing connections, and then build the bathroom, kitchen, as well as any other attached furniture. I am in the thick of it now, but hoping to have the apartment ready for use by the late summer 2024. The eventual goal is to make it available to our extended family as a vacation home and for us to use as a summer home.

pinia under construction
Pinia apartment building under construction and the view from the lake-side path connecting to the spa island.
slovak holobyt
Views from inside my lake-facing unit. A lot of work remains to get it finished!

Banská Bystrica

From Pieštany we next traveled to my home town of Banská Bystrica. Another interesting coincidence was that we arrived the day of the city marathon. I think I will try to run it one day! We got to see the runners completing their race in the evening, on our way back from my dad's cabin, since for some strange reason, this race is run in the evening. Then, it was the customary visit to my dad's pub, which he owned since around 1990. He finally managed to sell it at the end of 2023, and we are all hoping he will finally have more free time in his retirement. Then Sunday I hoped on a bus back to Bratislava, where I spent another night with Petra, and then it was time to head to the Bratislava airport for a short (and very cheap!) June 5th Ryanair flight to Burgas, Bulgaria, to start the second part of my journey. Please click that link to continue reading.

Bryndzove halusky - Slovak national dish - at a roadside traditional `Koliba' restaurant.
My hometown downtown, it hasn't changed much since my childhood. Also at my dad'd pub which he finally managed to sell later this year!
Back in Bratislava, catching a cheap Raynair flight to Burgas, Bulgaria.

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